Needing to replace all the hoses in the cooling system, I took a few section samples with me to a local box store that carries auto supplies; I also took my digital caliper. To my point above, heater hose was $1.99 a foot regardless of diameter. A store 20 miles away had the same stuff for $0.69. This I knew, but the retailers know most folks won't waste their time and gas to drive somewhere else for a few feet of hose (and they're right, I paid a 1.99 a foot).
So maybe I can save you a few bucks in advance...Four feet of 3/4" hose is all you need to connect the heater core to the heater pipe, the pipe to the rad, and the core to the intake. No 5/8" in this car. The original hose from core to pipe was specially formed to account for the tight angle. With a little trial and error on length and twist, you can use conventional hose without causing a kink. Don't forget hose clamps when you're picking up the hose. You'll need 5.
|The pre-cut length crapshoot. Occasionally cheaper than by-the-foot.|
|Note hose sections to heads (clamps not installed).|
With my digital caliper at the parts store, I found a sub-$10 radiator hose with the identical ID of the stubs, and with enough section length to cut two new stubs out of it. Look for Dayco 70081. For hose clamps, the uncompressed OD is 1-7/8". You'll need 4, obviously.
Now's a good time to talk about the t-stat. I bought a 180 degree replacement, but found out later the original (and the shop manual confirms) the factory t-stat was 170 degrees. I need to add a temp gauge anyhow, so I'll keep an eye on what effect this ultimately has; 170 is a tough number to find.